Food Feature
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Get Saucy!
A PRIMER ON THE ART OF THE DOLLOP, DRIZZLE AND DOUSE Written by Shelley Skiles Sawyer / Photographed by Kyle Ripley, Haigwood Studios Like a belt, a pair of cufflinks or a lapel pin in the world of haberdashery, a sauce is not designed to be enjoyed alone, although a well-crafted one can elevate the sassy factor of even the dullest of dishes. Either sweet or savory (or a little of both); hot, warm or cold; liquid, creamy, chunky or smooth, sauces are employed to elevate or enhance color, texture, flavor, moisture, mouthfeel and creativity. Some sauces have long histories—think soy sauce or fish sauce. Others are quite commonplace—mayonnaise, salad dressings and ketchup, for example, but, it’s the classic French ones that are widely deemed the most important jumping-off point. By refining and abridging extensive lists of sauces in French cuisine, chef Auguste Escoffier gave birth to the five fundamental “mother sauces” in the early 20th century. Whisk forward more than 100 years and these same sauces still hold fast as important roots of the culinary training tree. Much like knife skills and sanitation, mother sauces are building blocks, the algebra of the cooking world. “They’re called mother sauces for a reason,” says Diana Watkins, executive chef of Legendary Events, who memorized them in culinary school at The Art Institute of Atlanta using the acronym BETHV. [See Sidebar below: The ABC’s–and BETHV’s–of Mother Sauces] “It’s important for chefs to understand them because there are so many sauces that are derivatives of them.” With a few simple ingredients—mostly flour, butter and a liquid—and a couple of easy techniques, these five sauces, all equally important to your cooking repertoire, serve as the starting point for a slew of other classics. Bechamel, a white cream-based sauce, is the base for dishes like mac and cheese. “We do gallons and gallons of bechamel for all of our cheese sauces,” remarks the chef. Espagnole, Watkins’ favorite, is a rich brown sauce that is most commonly used as a base for many others, such as a demi-glace or a beef bourguignon. Tomato sauce needs no explanation, just a myriad of add-ins to become something else altogether. Hollandaise, an emulsion of egg yolk, butter and acid, such as lemon or vinegar, is a standard, sunny yellow brunch fare. “It’s very hard to hold a hollandaise as it always tends to break since there’s so much fat in it,” says the chef. Veloute, which means “velvety” in French, is made using a light stock (usually chicken or fish), which is thickened with a roux. Bring on the mashed potatoes! “They may seem intimidating, but mother sauces will nurture your kitchen confidence,” says Watkins. We hope you’ll attempt to master one or all of the mother sauces and bravely branch out on your own. And if your creation is so crave-worthy you’re tempted to slurp it with a spoon at the stove … No one’s watching! Excerpt is from an article featured in the FALL issue of Flavors Magazine, subscribe today and don't miss a single issue! Bechamel Sauce Master Recipe
Recipe by Diana Watkins, Executive Chef, Legendary Events Yield: about 4 cups 5 tablespoons butter 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour 4 cups milk 2 teaspoons salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt butter and whisk in flour until it forms a smooth paste. Continue whisking, cook for about 2 minutes, and then gradually add milk, 1/3 cup at a time. Continue whisking and cook until sauce is completely heated through, smooth and thickened. Remove from heat and season with salt and nutmeg. This sauce can be gently and slowly reheated before using. |
The ABC’s–and BETHV’s–of Mother Sauces
Bechamel: Roux + Dairy (traditionally milk or cream) Espagnole: Roux + Brown Stock (traditionally veal or beef) Tomato: Tomatoes Hollandaise: Egg Yolks + Clarified Melted Butter + Acid (like lemon juice or vinegar) Veloute: Roux + White Stock (traditionally chicken, but also vegetable or fish)
Mac and Cheese
Recipe by Diana Watkins, Executive Chef, Legendary Events Yield: 6 servings sea salt as needed 2 cups dry elbow pasta 4 cups hot Bechamel Sauce* (see Master Recipe) 4 cups shredded room temperature sharp white cheddar, divided 1/2 cup heavy cream Heat oven to 350 degrees. In medium pot, bring 2 quarts water and a pinch of sea salt to a boil, add pasta and cook for about 8 minutes. Turn off heat and drain. To hot Bechamel Sauce, add 3 cups shredded cheddar, 1/3 cup at a time, and whisk until blended. In a large bowl, place pasta, Bechamel cheese sauce and heavy cream, mix well and pour into casserole dish. Top evenly with remaining 1 cup cheese, cover and bake for 15 minutes. Remove cover and cook another 10 minutes to brown top. *Bechamel Sauce can be made in advance and reheated slowly, in a saucepan, over low heat so it doesn’t scorch. Flavors pairing suggestion: Ropiteau Bourgogne Chardonnay |
