Rum Raisin Ice Cream
Reprinted with permission from The New Orleans Kitchen: Classic Recipes and Modern Techniques for an Unrivaled Cuisine (Lorena Jones Books, 2019).
Yield: about 2 quarts
1 cup raisins
1 cup dark rum
2 cups whole milk
1 quart heavy cream, divided
1 1/2 cups sugar
12 egg yolks
In a small bowl, soak raisins in rum overnight, covered, at room temperature. * Drain raisins and reserve rum for another use.
In a saucepan over medium-high heat, bring milk and 2 cups cream to just below a boil. Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl, whisk sugar and egg yolks until light yellow, smooth ribbons with a bit of froth form.
Whisk scalding milk mixture into egg mixture, a few tablespoons at a time, until about 1 cup has been added, and then add remainder and whisk until mixture is smooth and well combined. This technique of gradually mixing hot liquid into raw eggs, to slowly increase temperature of eggs without cooking them into unappealing scrambled bits, is called tempering.
Pour mixture back into pot, add remaining 2 cups cream, turn heat to low, and cook, stirring, until it is slightly thickened and coats the back of a spoon, 3 to 5 minutes.
Transfer mixture to a bowl, stir in raisins and refrigerate until completely chilled, 4 to 6 hours. Pour chilled base into ice cream maker and churn according to manufacturer’s directions, until it resembles soft-serve ice cream and is smooth and creamy. Watch to be sure that the paddle keeps moving during this process — if it stops, that means the ice cream is too hard.
Remove ice cream from machine, and pack it into a plastic container with a lid, smoothing it out as you go to remove any air bubbles. Freeze for 4 to 6 hours, scoop and serve.
* Soaking the raisins in rum overnight ensures they won’t freeze into teeth-chipping little pebbles and makes for a deliciously creamy old-school scoop.